Saturday, May 24, 2014

Living in the Heart Shaped Land

Bosnia is sometimes called “the Heart Shaped Land” due to the distinctive shape of its borders, but it also makes sense when you realize how compassionate people are to one and other here. One thing that has always struck a chord with me about Bosnia and Herzegovina is what a strong sense of community there is among its citizens. You always hear about how there are too many ethnic tensions between Bosniaks, Croats, and Serbs, but if this year has taught me anything, it’s that when it really counted, Bosnians came together to help their neighbors no matter what their color or creed.

This sense of community is especially strong in light of recent events. As you may or may not know, parts of Bosnia, Croatia, and Serbia have been submerged in flood waters after unprecedented amounts of rains caused many rivers to overflow their banks. The floods left 1/3 of Bosnia and Herzegovina affected, they caused over 2,000 landslides, and thousands of others have lost their homes.

Flooded areas in the region
(Al Jazeera Balkans)

Within hours of the new breaking that many Bosnian towns were suffering I noticed a dramatic shift in the people of Sarajevo. My Facebook newsfeed was not only filled with prayers for the victims safety and health, but also places in which anyone could drop off supplies or donate goods to those in need. I’ve never seen people jump into action so quickly. Within a few days there were donation bins in every supermarket and school and caravans of emergency supplies, clothing, and food were gassed up and ready to go. People who did not feel satisfied just donating what little money they had to the cause grabbed their keys, loaded their trunks and headed for the affected areas despite all of the treacherous roadways.

A solder helps a boy evacuate in Maglaj
(AP Photo Amel Emric)

The rain has thankfully stopped and the flood waters have begun to recede but help keeps coming, often times in the most unlikely of ways. Today, for example, I attended an event called “Children vs. Dragons” where 100 kids with and without special needs “play” against Bosnia’s World Cup team in the name of charity. I thought there was nothing that would make me well up with happy tears faster than seeing a bunch of little kids get to play their favorite sport with their idols, but I was wrong. Sarah’s host mother, Sanida, the saint that she is, with the help of some others got in contact with the sole kindergarten class from Maglaj (whose school and town were devastated by the flooding) and arranged for them to come to the game and spend the day in Sarajevo. It was so heartwarming to know that, for at least a day, all of these kids could forget what they’d been through and go back to being kids. When Edin Džeko and the other Dragons took the field they screamed and cheered and chanted along to “Volim te Bosna!” (I love you, Bosnia.) It just warmed my heart.


After the game, we accompanied the kids to lunch at a restaurant called “Bexx” the kids all sat down and enjoyed a nice meal while Sarah and I chatted with Sanida. She explained to us that the owner of the restaurant was feeding all of these children for free out of the kindness of his own heart and that he had given each child a bar of chocolate, a World Cup sticker book, and some stickers (which are basically a substitute for currency now, so it was a big deal). I was awestruck. There had to have been at least 30 kids there and prior to lunch the man had not known a single one of them, but he still wanted to make sure that their day away from the floods was the best day they’d ever had. Oof,  after that I was a goner, it was just too sweet.


I only have a small time left in this little heart shaped land of mine, but I’m happy I get to spend it with people who care so deeply for one and another whether they’ve met or not. People are quick to associate Bosnia with past violence and prejudice, but if they gave it a chance they might be surprised to learn just how much heart this lovely country has to offer.



Sunday, May 11, 2014

A Little Trip over the Border

Last week for the May 1st holiday (it Labor Day in most of Europe) my host family packed up the car and headed for Serbia! We were driving to my host mother's cousin's house in rural Serbia outside of Belgrade, it took us a few hours, but on the way we had some good ole road trip fun.

Crossing the border into Serbia was a breeze. At the time, we were the only car going into Serbia, but at least a hundred cars were headed out, all they did was glance at our passports and send us on our way.

The town where my host mother's cousin lives was a tiny little village with only one long street. On the side of the road there were natural thermal springs that locals and tourists alike could swim in. Her cousin gave us a quick tour of the town and then we spent the rest of the day chatting and getting acquainted.

The next day we drove into Belgrade to see all the sights. Belgrade was the former capital of Yugoslavia and is the current capital of Serbia. It is much larger than Sarajevo. It reminded me of Washington D.C. mixed with New York and my family and I acted like total tourists, but we had a great time. We saw the Kalemegdan fortress, the Victor Statue, some Orthodox Christian churches and a zoo! It was quite a busy day, but the last thing on our list was to find this shopping center called Delta City that was rumored to have an H&M. That may not seem like a big deal, but when you take in account the fact that Bosnia doesn't have any H&M stores the stakes are higher. The problem with Delta City though was that it was way far away from downtown Belgrade and buried behind apartment complexes. We tirelessly search though and after an hour of aimlessly driving around we spotted it. Huzzah!

Before we knew it we were back in Bosnia. Our Serbian hosts took us to an Ethno selo for coffee and quick bite to eat. Then we had to thank them and depart. We piled back into the car and headed to Tuzla to spend the night at my host grandmother's house.

The next morning we made the trip home to Sarajevo. Going on vacation with my host family was such a fun experience, but my favorite part of the weekend was when we got back home and had a family dinner in the living room overlooking a Sarajevo sunset. Sarajevo may be a little rough around the edges, and it may the city not be for everyone, but it is sure as heck the city for me. I can't even bring myself to think about my departure in a little over a month, its just too depressing.

Monday, May 5, 2014

Hey hey hey...

Well this is a flattering surprise! Thank you YES Abroad. It should noted, however, that I do all of those volunteer activities with my partner in crime, and fellow YES Abroader Sarah Edgar.

http://www.yes-abroad.org/impact/march-2014-yes-abroad-student-month

Sunday, April 20, 2014

Tito's Bunker

Last Thursday the YES Abroad kids went on a field trip with our history class to a nearby town called Konjic. Konjic is a the site of  Josip Broz Tito’s Atomic Bunker. The construction of the bunker lasted for 26 years, from March 1953 to September 1979, but Tito never once visited it. It was one of Yugoslavia’s best kept secrets; our guide told us that workers were blindfolded when they were brought to the building site to ensure that no one would know of the bunker’s whereabouts.

Today the bunker is controlled by the Bosnian Ministry of Defense and functions as both a tourist attraction and a contemporary art museum. As our guide led us past at least 150 portraits of Tito we saw the air conditioning room and went inside some sort of giant fan chamber (it’s hard to explain), sat in conference halls, and past bedrooms that looked eerily similar to the dorm I’ll have next year in college. It was, without a doubt, one of the strangest field trips I have ever been on.


After the bunker, the whole class went out to lunch at a restaurant overlooking the Neretva River. Lunch was followed by an hour and half to explore the town and after a lovely day we hopped back on the bus and headed for Sarajevo.

Friday, April 18, 2014

Global Youth Service Day

Last week was Global Youth Service Day where partners from around the world organized a plethora of volunteer projects with the single goal of making the world a better place. (Its cheesy, I know but its still an admiral goal)

American Councils organized many projects in Bosnia, and in Sarajevo YES Abroad and YES Alumni banded together to clean up Bijela Tabija or The White Fortress which is this beautiful monument that overlooks Sarajevo. In recent years though, the monument has been kind of trashed by graffiti and well, trash. Last Saturday we tried to improve the situation a bit by cleaning it up. You would not believe what some people leave behind. At the end of the afternoon though we had filled up every trash bag we'd brought with us so I'd say it was a job well done.


Sunday, April 6, 2014

Happy April 6th!

April 6th is a big day for Sarajevo. Its considered Sarajevo's city day and its the occasion for a lot of special historical events. In 1945, April 6th was the day that Sarajevo is liberated from German and Croatian forces by Yugoslavian Partisans during World War II and in 1992 after the war it was the day that the European community recognized the Republic of Bosnia and Herzegovina as an independent state. So happy city day! Sretan Dan Grada!


Over the hill and through the woods...

I don't think I've ever been more physically exhausted than I was last night after the YES Abroad group went on an all day hiking trip to the Skakavac (Skah-kah-vats) waterfall and beyond. Despite my ultimate exhaustion, however, it was an amazing and incredibly fun day.

After 45 minutes of walking through a dense Bosnian forest we made our way to the main attraction for the day, the waterfall. The Skakavac waterfall is the highest one in Bosnia and Herzegovina, its about 98 meters tall. At the base of the waterfall there's an almost overpowering onion-esque smell which we later learned comes from an edible herb that grew nearby called...something with an "s" maybe? We all gathered up some of the whatever-it-was to bring to our host moms and headed towards our next destination.

After the waterfall our hike took about a 60 degree turn upwards and it soon began to feel like a climb. The scenery was well worth it though, at times the woods were so think that when it rained you didn't even get wet and everything was dark green and covered in moss. We walked through just about every type of terrain on this hike, well, except for desert sands. The views and the scenery were fantastic and well worth the trek.

The next stop was a little restaurant and bar on the top of the mountain. It was so remote, it didn't even have a menu the owner would just kind of make up items and prices for you. The funny thing was, despite its location, it was a pretty packed house. All these old men had climbed up there to drink beer and watch the Manchester United game on television. We all enjoyed some hearty Bosnian mountain food and headed on our way again.


After lunch the hike down began. We got to the bottom about five hours later then we planned too, but it was all worth it because we caught sight of a gorgeous rainbow. To finish off the day I caught a bus back to Panjina Kula and gave my legs some much needed rest.